What size skins should i get for my skis

Heat is the enemy of skin glue, and the best way to ruin to your first ski tour of the season is to overheat your skins and have gloppy glue.

Also, never use radiant heat like a fire place or heater to dry your skins. Either way, keep in mind that skins are the most "consumable" item of your setup, along with boot liners. Don't be afraid to wear them out and replace, that mean you've been getting a lot of skiing in! Book Appointment. Search 0 Cart. What are you looking for?

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Mens Tops Bottoms Accessories. Summer Sale Gear Apparel. Schedule Your Backcountry Appointment Today! Your headline. Add your deal, information or promotional text. Home Backcountry Blog. Previous Next. Choosing the Right Climbing Skin. Related Blog Posts. Events October 20, 2 min read 5 Comments.

Read more. Virtual Boot Fitting: How to take a quality photo of your feet. It should take less than 5min per skin to remove the glue. This might take 10min per skin depending on your level of OCD. This is a 1. Thanks for the podcast love Sam. This is coming straight from dozens of people I have personally talked to that have had a really hard time with the process.

As I said, if you love DIY projects re-gluing skins is a great one to take on to avoid wasting of a pair of skins. Careful with those glue fumes though. I have also seen a lot of people accidentally get glue on the plush side.

You only need a few drops and you are going to have a place for ice and snow to build up. I would also like to remind the commenters above that WildSnow has a special breed of extra sophisticated crew of DIY followers, so sometimes the ease of these projects can be a bit skewed.

Sam any interest in writing a step by step? Cheers Doug. Probably worth knowing the realistic hazards rather than guessing. PS — I did see that M and maybe others at HQ thought my comment was harsh — seems my own attempt at tongue-in-cheek ribbing was a bit heavy handed.

Apologies if I bummed anyone out. Party on. M is used to whipping college kids into shape. I like the banter so she took it down! I figured it was ok that you alert people to my get rich quick scheme of skin sales. The comments definitely have me interested in revisiting it and maybe supplying some better knowledge.

It had a tiny plastic handle and a giant exposed heating element. A bit of a lack of OSHA there, dang that thing hurt. Glad to here the low tech method is still the way to go. Keeping them stuffed under all but your inner layer keeps the glue nice and tacky on the really cold days and drying the ski base keeps the skins sticking on warm spring and summer days.

I wipe down the glue with the Contour cleaner and then goo gone when the Contour cleaner was gone — thanks Jim M! Try a pair and you will not go back to hot melt! The release paper comes off easier after ironing the new glue if the skins have a chance to get cold or freeze, If you threw out the shinny release paper after you trimmed the skins or it got ripped use baking parchment NOT wax paper! I like Wildsnow but this article was written buy a guy who sells skins for a living.

All that messy, smelly work for nothing. I put parchment over the new glue, max the digital waxing iron to F waxing temp is more like F which also helps to spread out the beads of Gold label, maybe roll it flat with a wine bottle and if you got the skills its possible to use a nekid iron on the glue with no parchment or release paper.

The glue comes off fine. I spread the fresh glue with an old credit card, ski pass, whatever. Heat with a waxing iron through parchment paper, let dry overnight on the porch, and good to go. Of course, YMMV. I have found that when the glue starts to lose some tack, you can put on paper bag sheets or the paper that came with the skins and hit the skins with an iron. Does a pretty nice job of getting the original glue sticky again.

Ironing the old glue of skins that are leaving glue on the bases might work for a bit but IME it usually means its reglue time sooner than later. Lots of skin regluing youtubes out there on the WWW, I suggest folks watch a few of them and form a consensus on the best method but maybe this thread just proves there are people out there who should not be allowed to own tools. Or put another way, not every person can do everything, or wants to!

And on another note, even my steel trap brain can ever get the homeophones of angel and angle right, anyone know if above is correct? I guessed. And the dryer technique sounds like curing smallpox with vitamin C. So people in this thread relating they had problems and people also say skin re-gluing is actualy not rocket biology? Agree with everything except skin width. On a steep windblown traverse you need skin traction under foot.

The tip and tail thirds are not a problem narrower than the ski. But you need the skin within 2mm of the edge underfoot over the middle third of the ski. So if you have big skis in the shovel and on the waist, a skin trimmed to in the waist will work fine, s would be a problem.

I may try reglueing these 3 beers, 1. Glue is also very good and skins come with a water barrier layer, but waxing is still a good idea. Check out what they call the skinny too, makes for quick and easy storage on the hill.

The web page also shows a skin with glue you can wash if you get it dirty, they call it Fusiontec. They are generally cut cm from the tail and the ends should be curved. Please note that certain brands sell skins specifically cut for their own make of skis for ease of application.

This provides better gliding and makes them lighter. Using a tensioner on the ski tip also makes it possible to remove the climbing skins without having to take your skis off, saving precious time. This technology has now developed well and I recommend it if you are kitting yourself out.

Whatever type of climbing skin you use, you need to be very careful when applying them and maintaining them to avoid having to deal with a variety of problems:. It is important to properly maintain your skins to make life easier on your next trip out. Here are a few usage and maintenance tips:. Now that you are an expert on climbing skins, all you need to do is keep an eye on the weather, and find out the best conditions to enjoy a ski touring session! If you need a few tips to make sure you are off to a good start, check this article!

Mohair: These skins are made using Angora goat hair. They have the advantage of great gliding but they wear out much more quickly. Synthetic nylon : These skins are more durable and affordable. The majority of ski tourers choose this kind of climbing skins.

Determine if you will get pre-cut or uncut universal skins Some brands such as Dynafit and Nordica make skins pre-cut to the length and width of their backcountry skis If your skis do not have a pre-cut skin available, you will have to purchase uncut universal skins 2. If purchasing uncut universal skins Determine the dimensions of your ski: Check your skis for Tip width, Waist Width, and Length usually printed on the skis.

If the dimensions aren't printed on your skis, measure the widest part of the tip and the narrowest part of the middle in millimeters. Also measure the length of your skis in centimeters.

Match your ski tip width with a skin of the same or near the same width.